How To Choose Double Breasted Suit

The return of the much-hyped original 1980’s power suit is slated for this fall season. Most of the major designers of men’s apparels, ranging from Armani, Zegna and Tom Ford, featured their double-breasted suit in their collections during the recent NY fashion week. While what may seem, at first, the same piece as that of the 80’s power suit, many major differences, in abundant measure, can be noted in this latest incarnation of the double-breasted suit which makes it a more trendy piece of clothing.

The double-breasted suit dates back to a time much earlier than the 1980’s. It is remembered as a Reagan era suit which one would wear when he meant business. The main point is that these suits were cut the 80’s way as it featured wider lapels, huge shoulder padding, low button stances, triple-pleated trousers and a high rise. Slim and trim, tailored silhouette forms today’s modern double-breasted suit’s best design. In simple words, there is a huge difference between the 1980’s version and today’s.

Darker colors are always the way to go. This is one fact that hasn’t changed all through the years when it comes to double-breasted suits. A darker suit matches almost everybody’s skin tone and also conveys the expression of authority. Almost every CEO owns a closet full of dark suits. Choose a suit in either a dark black charcoal or a navy blue color. Soft and subtle patterns go well with double-breasted suits as they don’t necessarily require help from any type of bold fabrics and also manage to attract enough attention.

Double-breasted suits can be kept buttoned which in turn will give you a slim look. Consider wearing a tie along with the suit even though it would seem a little stuffy. But, then again, this is another reason why the double-breasted suits became the power suit of the 1980’s and 30 years later too, it is still said to be so.


A double-breasted suit has two rows of buttons and the front overlaps sufficiently to allow both flaps to be attached to the opposite row of buttons. Tall and thin gentlemen would benefit greatly from double-breasted suits as these suits would give them a matching appearance to their physique. These suits can however draw attention to the midsection in the case of men of heavy stock. Therefore, careful attention is required and an expert tailor must be employed.

Lapels can be found with a number of options in a variety of styles. The width of the lapels is always considered an important factor with the extremely-narrow lapels of the 1950’s standing in stark contrast to the excessively-wide lapels of the 1970’s. However, lapels of moderate width are considered timeless in the case of classic fashion. Suit lapels also come in two styles in accordance with different widths. The two styles are: notched, which has a wide V-shaped opening where the lapel and collar join; and peaked, which flares out in a sharp point with a very narrow deep V at the joint. Both notched and peaked lapels are equally classic. Although peaked lapels are often found on double-breasted jackets.

The flap-like slits found at the bottom of the jacket which accommodate movement and offer easy access to the trouser pockets are known as vents. Jackets usually have three styles: center, side, and none. Ventless jackets, just as the name implies, have no vents, and are popular on Continental suits. Even though it can lead to wrinkling when the wearer sits down, they provide a sleek look to the back of the jacket. Center-vented jackets, usually very popular on American suits, have only a single slit at the back, allowing the jacket to expand at the bottom when sitting. A side-vented jacket has two vents, one on either side, generally just behind the trouser pockets, to provide easy access.

These are some of the points that need to be taken into consideration before selecting a double-breasted suit

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Groom Tuxedos For Wedding Cermonies

of a wedding ceremony in the presence of parents, friends and relatives is definitely exciting. A wedding is special in everyone’s life. On this special occasion, the bride looks spectacular in a wedding gown, while the groom looks grand by wearing a tuxedo. Groom tuxedos play an important role in a wedding ceremony. Depending on the vests, dress style and shirt design, tuxedos should be selected to match. Men are more passionate, they have a desire of becoming the center of attraction on their wedding ceremony.

Groom tuxedos are made of special materials. These tuxedos are designed by professional fashion designers. They are designed with utmost care so that grooms look smart at the time of their wedding. Different types of tuxedos like formal Groom tuxedos, traditional groom tuxedos, black wedding tuxedos, etc, are available in the market. Generally in a wedding ceremony, a bride dominates the scene by wearing stylish wedding gowns, and brighter wedding jewelry. In order to match her fashion, and gather attention from visitors, a groom should wear a modern tuxedo.


Depending on the personality of a groom, his tuxedo can be selected. Grooms who have a lean appearance should look for single breasted jackets having long lines, wide peak lapels and low stance buttons. Options like double breasted groom tuxedos or a subtle pattern vest and tie that can be used by slender men. Shorter grooms should select athletic Groom tuxedos. Athletic groom tuxedos, match with appearance of short men. They fit well, and appear more dignified. In order to bring style for short men, athletic tuxedos are fitted with buttons at the bottom.

Tall and handsome grooms use different Groom tuxedos. These people prefer shawl collar tuxedos. Shawl collar tuxedos match the height and personality of a tall groom. Jacket length plays an important role in case of tall men. The size of the jacket should be long enough to fit his hands comfortably. Grooms, who have a thick neck and wide face, should avoid wearing a tie on these tuxedos. Wearing a tie spoils the appearance of the tuxedo. Tall and slim grooms should prefer double breasted groom tuxedos. These tuxedos have jacket buttons at the top.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Fashion Conscious Men

Over the past half-century, the dress shirt has gone from being an garment to holding a prominent place in many outfits. This is one reason why it is today available in so many styles, colors, and patterns. Whether one's style is chinos or suit-and-tie, shirts are an essential means of expanding one's wardrobe.

A shirt's style signals quite a bit about the wearer's intentions. A dress shirt with a button-down collar, left breast pocket, plain front, and single-button cuffs signals leisure while a dress shirt with a turned-down point collar, no breast pocket, placket front, and French cuffs signals formality. The beauty of adjusting a shirt's style is that you can design it for not only for the occasion but also to compliment your unique features.

Shirt Collars:

The men's dress shirt collar is the most important style detail, both in determining the garment's level of formality and in how it flatters the wearer's face. Button-down collars are the least formal and extremely versatile; they look great without a tie but can just as well support a tie and sweater, blazer, or sport coat combination. The wing collar, on the other hand, is reserved for formal wear and should always be worn with its companion parts. It is the least versatile collar, whose sole purpose is to signal the highest level of dress.

Most men's dress shirts sport some sort of pointed collar, but there is huge room for variety here. While the standard point collar looks good on most men, those with narrower faces do better with slightly shorter ones, while round faces carry well above long collar points. As a general rule, the greater the angle between the short sides of the collar points, the more formal the presentation. Spread collars, which leave a wide opening between them, take large tie knots especially well. The edges of the cut-away collar nearly form a straight line above the tie knot; this is the most formal collar arrangement. An exception to the parallelism of spread and formality is the tab collar: here little tabs of fabric extending from each side connect behind the tie knot, holding the collar close together and projecting the knot outward for a precise, no-nonsense look. The white contrast collar, in any style, with or without matching white French cuffs, is a favorite of power-dressers. While it certainly raises a suit-and-tie above the masses, let the wearer be warned against it if he cannot equal its eminence.

On most decent dress shirts, the collar's points are kept straight by collar stays. These 2- to 3-inch pointed splints are inserted into slots on the underside of the collar after ironing, and later removed for washing. Besides the plastic ones that come with most shirts, you can buy them in brass, silver, and even ivory, but their material has negligible effect on their function.


Shirt Cuffs:

Barrel cuffs, standard on most dress shirts, come in a variety of styles and except for the most formal of occasions are never a bad choice. The common variety has a single button; cuffs with two or even three buttons are somewhat more artful. French cuffs are de rigeur for formal wear; they look good with a suit but are always optional. A button in the sleeve placket helps the sleeve to stay closed during wear and can be opened to iron the cuffs; it is optional but nearly ubiquitous.

Shirt Pockets:

The traditional left breast pocket adds a little depth to a dress shirt, especially if worn without jacket and tie, and can be useful for holding pens, tickets, and the like. A shirt with no pockets can look slightly cleaner with a coat and tie, but since the coat covers the pocket the difference is minimal when wearing a suit. As with most things, simplicity equals formality, so the pocket-less shirt is the dressiest.

Shirt Front & The Placket:

The standard placket is a strip of fabric raised off the men's dress shirt front with stitches down each side; this is what most casual shirts and many dress shirts have. In the more modern French placket, the edge of the shirt front is folded over, creased, and held together only by the button holes. This cleaner front sharpens more formal dress shirts; it should not, however, be combined with a button-down collar. There are also hidden button plackets, and as the name suggests hide the front buttons under a sheath of fabric.

Shirt Back:

Men's backs are not flat; thus we use pleats on the back panel of a shirt so that the fabric may hang from the yoke (the piece covering the shoulder blades) and better conform to the body. There are two common varieties of pleated shirt back styles: the box pleat consists of two pleats spaced one-and-a-half inches apart at the center, while side pleats lie halfway between each edge and the center of the back. While the former are more common on ready-to-wear shirts, the latter better align with the actual shape of the back, and thus fit most men better. A well-made custom shirt can be cut and sewn to fit its wearer perfectly without pleats, and this makes it cleaner and easier to iron. Nonetheless, many men prefer to have pleats even on their bespoke dress shirts.

Monograms:

A man may elect to have his shirt monogrammed, usually on the edge of the breast pocket or on the shirt's cuff. Monogramming originated as a way to identify one's shirts in a commercial laundry, akin to writing a child's name on the tag of their jacket. More recently, as the shirt has taken a more prominent role in men's dress, the monogram has emerged as a way to subtly communicate the care a man has taken in obtaining his clothes. While large, garish monograms certainly do more harm than good, many men enjoy the quiet display of their initials, usually in a color similar to the shirt's own.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

The Tuxedo : Renting And Buying Basics

Unless you're exchanging vows on a beach in Kauai, your best Bermuda shorts won't make the cut -- you'll need formalwear in which to greet your bride. If you have season tickets to the opera, you may already be a tuxedo owner, all set to look snazzy on your big day. But otherwise, the question is whether to rent or buy.

TO RENT OR TO BUY?
Money is the main factor in your decision. Renting will cost about 10% to 30% of the price of a new tuxedo; the average price for a decent tux is between $300 and $500. If you attend three or four formal events per year, buying a tux may be worthwhile. Plus, a good tux is an investment -- you can wear it for years. But if you'd rather slather your body in hot tar than wear a coat and tie a couple of times a year, go for the rental. It's not a big hassle, and you won't be stuck with thin lapels when extra-wide ones come back in style.

Also, if you look toward Howard Hughes as your anti-germ model, you may want to go for your very own, sanitized tux. Rentals are used by who knows how many men, not all of whom share your high hygiene standards. Of course, rental tuxes are cleaned between each use (another cost to factor into your decision), but if you really can't stand the thought of another sweating-buckets nervous groom donning your tuxedo, buying may be for you.


RENTAL TIPS
Rental-minded types should keep the following tidbits in mind when choosing a wedding ensemble:

Choose a formalwear store that has updated their inventory regularly since 1976. (If you see powder blue and ruffles, run.)

A good formalwear dealer will know how to measure you properly (inseam, waist, jacket size) and give you a fitting in advance of the wedding.

The dealer should also listen to you. If you're of the fashionable persuasion and want a dark blue, 5-button mandarin collar tux, but the dealer's praising a silver tux with tails, you'll know you've come to the wrong shop. Politely say thanks but no thanks and vamoose on out of there.

The store should be able to supply you with all the accessories you'll need: bow tie, cummerbund, cufflinks, suspenders, even shoes.

Finally, have all your groomsmen get their monkey suits at the same shop, so you'll be wearing matching duds. Even though they may live in various parts of the country, reserve their tuxedos at least three months in advance and you'll be set.

We remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

The Tux : A Groom's Fashion Checklist

With all that wedding planning crowding your mind, you might be tempted to forget about formalwear until the last minute. But looking good requires planning ahead. How to go about it? Here's our checklist.

THREE MONTHS BEFORE
Decide what you and your groomsmen will wear. Go tux shopping or reserve rentals for you and your posse.

ONE MONTH BEFORE
If you’re buying a tux, make sure alterations are finished and go in for a final fitting. If the tux still doesn't fit quite right, the shop will still have time to make final alterations.

ONE WEEK BEFORE
Get a haircut!

Get a manicure (no polish -- just clean, buffed nails).

Buy new boxers for the big day. Surprise your bride with something stylish, yet not too risque.

ONE DAY BEFORE
If you’re renting, pick up your tux. Make sure your groomsmen, your father, and the ring bearer get their tuxes, too.


If you’re renting or buying, make sure all the elements are included in the correct size: jacket, trousers, shirt, tie, vest or cummerbund, shoes, cuff links, and dress socks.

If you will be dressing somewhere other than at home, put together your entire outfit today. From head to foot, you should gather:
Hair products
Deodorant
Tie
Cummerbund or belt
Vest
Coat or jacket
Cuff links and studs
Dress shirt
Watch
Trousers
Undershirt
Underwear
Socks
Shoes
And last, but definitely not least, the bride's ring

THE MORNING OF THE BIG DAY
Get a close shave.

Take a hot shower
Remember your deodorant! This might be a high-sweat day.

Put it all together. If you’ve chosen a regular business suit, add a handkerchief for some extra je ne sais quoi.

Remember the bride's ring. Place it in your pocket to entrust to your best man sometime before the ceremony.

Ask your mother to pin on your boutonniere. This mother/son time on the big day will bring a tear to her eye and give her a chance to offer last-minute marriage advice.

Get ready to stand at the end of that aisle, awaiting your lovely bride's entrance.


We remain with best regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

For Weddings

Your mission on your big day isn't impossible; it's simply to look your best. A well-fitting tux is a given. It's how you accessorize that will make the most of your outfit. To help you pump up your style quotient, we tracked down the hot trends in tux and suit accessories.

MINIMAL COLOR
Stick with more subdued, sophisticated color arrangements. Try going with the same hue for both your shirt and tie. A tone-on-tone combo not only takes the guesswork out of coordinating, but will also give you a very glam look. All black -- black tux, tie, and shirt -- is popular. Navy-on-navy is big, as is a chocolate tie and shirt. Christopher Sulavik, author of The Indispensable Guide to Classic Men's Clothing, offers one general guideline to keep in mind when pairing tints of the same color: the tie is usually darker than the shirt.

If you plan to wear a vest, black and silver are the two most popular choices. Silver (and gold) ties and vests are still red hot, but expect more pastels and light blues to trickle down from other men's clothing trends.

ILLUSTRIOUS TIES
If you're seeking a cutting-edge look, the bow tie should be left buried in your closet behind that pile of dirty laundry. Ties, especially those with a high-sheen, are definitely a more modern approach to neckwear. Popularized by Hollywood-types at Tony award ceremonies like the Oscars, four-in-hand satin ties in lustrous, solid colors paired with a dressy shirt will definitely add some punch to your ensemble.


URNED DOWN COLLARS
The truly updated outfit forgoes the wing collar and replaces it with the more modern turndown variety. The pros, with their current penchant for neckties and matching same-colored shirts, would definitely put you in a fancy turndown-collar shirt.

TONED DOWN VESTS
Skip the cummerbund. Though these classic garments will never go out of style, the fashion forward will decide on a vest instead. Full-back, solid-colored vests are the current choice of grooms and groomsmen, the benefit being that if you and your men plan on cranking up the heat and removing your jackets at the reception, you will still have a finished look. Do without loud, busy patterns and select a toned-down style, such as a monochromatic vest two different hues of the same color. Or better yet, go with a solid color.

WELL-HEELED SHOES
Grooms are taking the aisle walk in thick-soled leather shoes similar to what's seen on the streets. Forget slip-on loafers; instead, chose a chunkier black lace-up style. "If you're looking for a classic patent leather, update the shape with a square toe," suggests Kenneth Cole. "It's modern and simple yet sophisticated enough to be worn with any tuxedo." If you go with a heavier shoe, you'll need pants that are cut a bit wider at the bottom for a more balanced look.

SILVER JEWELS
In tuxedo terms, jewelry means cuff links and shirt studs. Silver links are more popular today than gold, and are often set with black onyx. These small, fashionable costume pieces are made with a variety of different stones -- from onyx to mother of pearl -- and add just the right finishing touch to your wedding day ensemble.

We remain with regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

The Tux: A Groom's Fashion Checklist

With all that wedding planning crowding your mind, you might be tempted to forget about formalwear until the last minute. Butlooking good requires planning ahead. How to go about it? Here's our checklist....


THREE MONTHS BEFORE
Decide what you and your groomsmen will wear. Go tux shopping or reserve rentals for you and your posse.

ONE MONTH BEFORE
If you’re buying a tux, make sure alterations are finished and go in for a final fitting. If the tux still doesn't fit quite right, the shop will still have time to make final alterations.


ONE WEEK BEFORE
Get a haircut!
Get a manicure (no polish -- just clean, buffed nails).
Buy new boxers for the big day. Surprise your bride with something stylish, yet not too risque.

ONE DAY BEFORE
If you’re renting, pick up your tux. Make sure your groomsmen, your father, and the ring bearer get their tuxes, too.
If you’re renting or buying, make sure all the elements are included in the correct size: jacket, trousers, shirt, tie, vest or cummerbund, shoes, cuff links, and dress socks.
If you will be dressing somewhere other than at home, put together your entire outfit today. From head to foot, you should gather:

Hair products
Deodorant
Tie
Cummerbund or belt
Vest
Coat or jacket
Cuff links and studs
Dress shirt
Watch
Trousers
Undershirt
Underwear
Socks
Shoes
And last, but definitely not least, the bride's ring

THE MORNING OF THE BIG DAY!

Get a close shave.
Take a hot shower.
Remember your deodorant! This might be a high-sweat day.

Put it all together. If you’ve chosen a regular business suit, add a handkerchief for some extra je ne sais quoi.

Remember the bride's ring. Place it in your pocket to entrust to your best man sometime before the ceremony.

Ask your mother to pin on your boutonniere. This mother/son time on the big day will bring a tear to her eye and give her a chance to offer last-minute marriage advice.

Get ready to stand at the end of that aisle, awaiting your lovely bride's entrance.


This Article is from The Knot

We remain with best regards,
your E-tailors at www.mycustomtailor.com